11/13/2023 0 Comments Vuescan settings for 110 film![]() To scan frames 1, 3, 4, and 5, for example, you would type 1-3-4-5 in the box. Type in a list of frame numbers, seperated by dashes. When LIST is selected, a BATCH LIST box appears. LIST: Use this if you only want to scan some of the frames on a strip, or when you have fewer frames loaded than the scanner's film holder can hold.On my scanner, however, it does not work. AUTO: I think that this is supposed to detect how many frames are loaded in the scanner and scan only those, not any empty spots on the film holder.Therefore I could imagine that the structure of the rough glass in fine enough to count as anti-newton glass (I would probably use it on the carrier side of the film and on the light source side, such that the picture itself has almost full resolution). (Just ordered.) This is all intended for use in picture frames. With this I can test several combinations. The sample pack contains mirogard museum white glass and also some one-side rough white glass (among others). This is a set of different glass samples in the format of 210 mm times 210 mm. Our discussion made me research a bit again and I found something really interesting: Muster-Set Glassorten (9-teilig) | Muster | Serviceangebote | Service | HALBE-Rahmen GmbH. ![]() I know that many people try to explain that this look is not special, but I know what I see. Maybe in combination with medium format?Īnd, also, I’d really love to have some medium format portraits of my children with this smooth sharpness transition that for me makes the “medium format/large format look”. This reduced my personal interest in b/w a bit … When my children are a bit older, I think I will try this again at home. I once (5 years ago or so) shot a b/w film, developing it together with an experienced friend, and it came out blanc. Talking about pocketfilm, I just realized that this may be a false friend, as it seems to be called 110 film in English solely … I tried to 3D print a holder for the pocketfilm for my scanner, but it turns out that there’s not much where you could grab the film to keep it flat, which gets me to the glass discussion and the camera scanning. For 35 mm, I am happy with my scanning process (k, there’s always something to improve, but in general, it works well). What formats are your family negatives? Are they B&W?Īll color, especially the older ones from my parents, 35 mm and pocketfilm. Fair enough, my example does not show scratches at areas such as faces where the content is more crucial, but from my experience with old family photographs, the results are really excellent and the manual effort is close to zero, only some initial mask adjustment (which is necessary only one time per film stock). Furthermore, there’s at least one inpainting method for which I would attest that the result is not distinguishable from regular image content. ![]() The whole technique I used is described a couple of posts before.Īs only the missing parts of the image are inpainted, there is no overall reduction in sharpness. These places can be clearly seen on the used mask: ![]() I compared at two areas of the image, a line scratch segment and a large dot-like scratch. I did not optimize the parameters but used the default configuration, except for -inpaint_diffusion, where I used the parameter given by and one other case, where no default values are available. Scanned image scratch removal with “ICE” Processingĭuring my vacation I had little time but at least I was able to do a comparison of the inpainting methods provided by G’MIC. Is enough light received by the camera in this particular spectrum, given a reasonable light source? The requirements on dynamic range are probably much more relaxed for the IR image than for the visible color image …Īt least my cellphone’s camera is very sensitive to the IR light of a TV remote, but figuring out good parameters for the setup described above may require a bit more effort ….Is the different optical behaviour of the lens at the different frequency an issue? I guess a slight blur would be acceptable for the IR channel.Would an IR filter be best placed between light source and film, or between film and camera?.What kind of IR filter could be used (which spectrum is needed)?.a flash capable of emitting enough light in the relevant IR spectrum, or what light source that is easy to get would work? I am wondering for a while already if it would work doing an IR channel when photographing the negative with a regular camera. It also avoids the slight softening of the image from IR cleaning and issues that IR causes on fine detail such as faces.ĭo you mean the vuescan implementation? Because if you are saving the IR channel, you can use a much better algorithm than what vuescan provides. ![]()
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